Wednesday, March 19, 2008

On Chocolate Souffles and Metaphors




Many people find the experience of making a soufflé difficult or nerve-wrecking. Some worry that their soufflé will never rise while others are distraught that the soufflé needs to be perfectly timed to be served on the table. This is fair enough: soufflés are whimsical and play tricks whenever they please. They often fall almost as quickly as they rise. They are the boss; I have had a few misadventures and frustrations with them too, trust me.

But how much fun they are to make and eat; we agree, don’t we?


The souffle I love is traditional; it has an egg base (utilizing both yolks and whites) and some sugar, Grand Marnier and vanilla added (although the last two can be left out if all you really want is chocolate). Souffles have an unfair reputation for being difficult to make, but once you've made one, you realize that it's not difficult; it's just timing that matters.


I now realize that she was right; souffles are temperamental, and each type of souffle requires a different approach. ... At its best, a souffle has a crusty exterior packed with flavor, a dramatic rise above the rim, an airy but substantial outer layer, and a rich, loose center that is not completely set. ... From the start, I knew it was going to take a lot of detective work to find the secrets of this delicate thoroughbred of a desert.

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