"From these various excursions, and a good many others, (including one to
Manassas,) we gained a pretty lively idea of what was going on; but,
after all, if compelled to pass a rainy day in the hall and parlors of
Willard's Hotel, it proved about as profitably spent as if we had
floundered through miles of Virginia mud, in quest of interesting
matter. This hotel, in fact, may be much more justly called the centre
of Washington and the Union than either the Capitol, the White House, or
the State Department. Everybody may be seen there. It is the
meeting-place of the true representatives of the country,—not such as
are chosen blindly and amiss by electors who take a folded ballot from
the hand of a local politician, and thrust it into the ballot box
unread, but men who gravitate or are attracted hither by real business,
or a native impulse to breathe the intensest atmosphere of the nation's
life, or a genuine anxiety to see how this life-and-death struggle is
going to deal with us. Nor these only, but all manner of loafers. Never,
in any other spot, was there such a miscellany of people. You exchange
nods with governors of sovereign States; you elbow illustrious men, and
tread on the toes of generals; you hear statesmen and orators speaking
in their familiar tones. You are mixed up with office-seekers,
wire-pullers, inventors, artists, poets, prosers, (including editors,
army-correspondents, attachés of foreign journals, and
long-winded talkers,) clerks, diplomatists, mail contractors,
railway-directors, until your own identity is lost among them.
Occasionally you talk with a man whom you have never before heard of,
and are struck by the brightness of a thought, and fancy that there is
more wisdom hidden among the obscure than is anywhere revealed among the
famous. You adopt the universal habit of the place, and call for a
mint-julep, a whisky-skin, a gin-cocktail, a brandy-smash, or a glass of
pure Old Rye; for the conviviality of Washington sets in at an early
hour, and, so far as I had an opportunity of observing, never terminates
at any hour, and all these drinks are continually in request by almost
all these people. A constant atmosphere of cigar-smoke, too, envelopes
the motley crowd, and forms a sympathetic medium, in which men meet more
closely and talk more frankly than in any other kind of air. If
legislators would smoke in sessions, they might speak truer words and
fewer of them, and bring about more valuable results."
--Nathaniel Hawthorne, "Chiefly About War Matters"
2 comments:
This is a gem. Thanks for sharing and linking to the piece. The next few lines are just as good:
"It is curious to observe what antiquated figures and costumes sometimes make their appearance at Willard's. You meet elderly men with frilled shirt-fronts, the fashion of which adornment passed away from among the people of this world half a century ago. It is as if one of Stuart's portraits were walking abroad. I see no way of accounting for this, except that the trouble of the times, the impiety of traitors, and the peril of our sacred Union and Constitution have disturbed, in their honored graves, some of the venerable fathers of the country, and summoned them forth to protest against the mediated and half-accomplished sacrilege. If it be so, their wonted fires are not altogether extinguished in their ashes,—in their throats, I might rather say;—for I beheld one of these excellent old men quaffing such a horn of Bourbon whiskey as a toper of the present century would be loath to venture upon. But really, one would be glad to know where these strange figures come from."
-NK
I'm pretty sure we need to go to "Willard's" to people watch. Also, you need a blog nickname!
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